Tuesday, May 13, 2014

May 12 - Our incredible drive to Indemini, Switzerland - Woohoo!

We rented a car for the week since the weather was good. Our time here is coming to a close and yet there were so many places we wanted to explore!  Although we could also take a bus to Indemini, it was much faster to drive. 

Now, why Indemini? I discovered this town way deep and high up in a valley near Locarno, near the Italian border, while looking at Google earth. It sits at 3,117 feet above sea level in the Valle Veddasca. The settlement began in the 1200's and was isolated until 1917-18 until a road was built on the Swiss side.  Indemini is near a river which forms the border between Switzerland and Italy.  There are a number of towns on the Italian side of the river all the way down to Lake Maggiore, and in fact, in the 1800's Switzerland tried to swap Indemini with the Italian town of Campione d'Italia (which is actually located within the Swiss borders), but Italy said no.  

So Rick and I made the climb by car from the Swiss end of Lake Maggiore, above Magadino, across from Locarno.  And oh boy! What a climb! I actually had thoughts of turning back. (Very unlike me!) 

My theory is always that "if the postal bus goes here, I can go here!" And yes, the postal bus drives this route about 6 times a day, year round! Yikes! (It's more of a big van). There were a couple of bus stops in the middle of nowhere - but near a hiking path, of course. One good thing was that we encountered only one car. It would have been more frightening with traffic - one advantage to the off season. 
As we climb up the mountain towards Indemini, looking back across Lake Maggiore to the Valle Verzasca near Locarno. You can see the big dam at the entrance to the valley. 
We zig-zagged up steep switchbacks over and over, for about 30 minutes straight - no towns, nothing, until we suddenly popped out into the open at the top of the pass called the Alpe di Neggia. Cold up there! 
Lots of paths to hike up there! There is a restaurant there but it was still closed.  I'm sure it's hopping in summer! 
Looking again at the dam and its lake across in the Valle Verzasca. I think you can get an idea of how straight up we are and how steep that mountain drive was! 
The view looking over the other side of the pass towards Italy and another part of Lake Maggiore (it's a long lake!) The first town you see on the right slope is the first town in Italy, Biegno. Indemini is closer to where I took this picture but not visible. 
A small group of homes, a "suburb" of Indemini near the pass called Monti Idacca. 
Zooming in on a meadow across the valley. There are some old stone houses but the grocery store lady said no one lives there any more. (There are no roads!)

Indemini, Switzerland
Indemini, Switzerland
. We parked the car in Indemini and then spent our day exploring this very old town.  It is one of the best examples of a large town that basically has not changed much in hundreds of years. There are only about 60 people that live there year round, but the number swells to about 300 in summer with many summer homes. 
We walked into a museum which has some interesting papers from the 1700's. One spoke of a sudden illness killing 30 residents, and on top of that the winter was harsh and food was scarce. So hard to imagine how they did it! 
Indemini, Switzerland
Indemini, Switzerland
For any future visitors of Indemini - you can all and arrange of tour of the town! Wish I knew about this before we made the trip. 
Indemini, Switzerland
Great summer home! 
Rick and I had packed a lunch and found a nice spot in the grass by the church. Earlier, we spoke to a woman in the tiny grocery store.  Speaking with her, we realized we were in the valley on the other side of Monte Lema and Monte Tamaro. We can see both from our house. We bought from her some Peppe Aromatizato di Valle Maggia. We had just learned about this pepper. It's made in Valley Maggia near Locarno and cooked with wine and other spices. Very unusual and really good! (It can also be found in Lugano). 
I asked the woman about the road through Italy, if it was as steep. She said it was about the same but maybe a gentler ride. We decided that would be our way home. I was getting nervous at the thought of going back down on the Swiss side! 

Our picnic spot near the church. See Rick sitting in the grass?
A green and turquoise lizard I spotted! (usually they are just brown) 
Indemini, Switzerland
Indemini, Switzerland
 Indemini, Switzerland
Indemini, Switzerland


Indemini, Switzerland
Indemini, Switzerland
On our ride back down on the Italian side, we see the town of Monteviasco, Italy. There are no signs of roads, only of a pulley system to bring things up there. This Italian town is furthest into the valley on that side of the valley. 

Don't drive too fast - you never know what you'll encounter on the road! 

Another view of Monteviasco on the other side of the valley. 
So it was quite a nice ride done the Italian side and I was surprised to see quite large Italian towns so high up in that valley also! It's really amazing and worth a trip here to experience it. 
When all was said and done, we were SO happy we made this trip to Indemini. It was worth the white knuckles! 

We have arrived down the mountain to Lake Maggiore, over the town of Maccagno, Italy

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