May 24 - Hike from Scudellate in Valley Muggio to Erbonne, Italy

Today we got up VERY early to take the train to Chiasso, Switzerland - last stop south before Como, Italy. From there we took the valley Muggio bus to the last stop up high in the valley - Scudellate. We had to plan carefully. There are only 3 buses a day here. We will have 4 hours before the next bus will take us down. 

An interesting thing about the town Erbonne that we are about to visit. It had once been part of Switzerland, but several hundred years ago the border was changed and it became Italy. Erbonne is several miles from the next Italian town, and their were no roads to it up until the 1950's. Because of this remoteness, any village services were handled by Valley Muggio. Births, deaths, schooling, medical things - all handled by Switzerland. The residents even have Swiss passports, yet it is a town in Italy!

All the towns in this valley are high up on the sides of the mountain. About 3/4 of the way to Scudellate, we had to stop to change to a smaller bus - the road is too narrow and switchbacks to tight for the full size bus. Here is our view during our bus change. 

The postal bus service began many years ago because the mail had to be delivered to remote towns. This was a Sunday morning, so the Sunday paper was being delivered during our stops. Here, the driver hands a stack of paper to an elderly woman who was waiting for the delivery! 

Waiting for another stack of papers. 

Our little bus winds up the road you see, to its final stop at the end of the ballet - Scudellate! The mountain behind it is Italy.

We begin our hike around the right side of the mountain. This is Scudellate as we hike out of town. 

During our hike through the woods, we take a detour to see the "roccolo". These our towers often seeing around Ticino, which were used back in the day to capture birds. Ticino was very poor until about the 1950's and birds were food! 

Me along the hike!

The hike hugs the mountain side, over a little waterfall, and around to the left. 

We come to a "newer" bridge connecting Switzerland with Italy. One of the houses of Erbonne can be seen up ahead. 

At the boarder! 

Now, what is so special about this connection between Scudellate in Valley Muggio and Erbonne? For many years it was an important passage of contraband between the two countries. "Guardia di Confine" border guards, patrolled this area all the time, and if someone was caught bringing contraband (in either direction), they had to pay a fine and the tax, or if they fled, they would be shot at. 

They hiked these mountain trails during the night, carrying huge packs on their backs. What was the contraband? Arms? Drugs? No! The usual was cigarettes, sugar, rice, and even sausage. They got SHOT at for this?

Hiking paths signs in the usual Swiss fashion and the Italian signs. 

The town "lavatoio" - wash basin. The bottom basin to wash, the top one, with the fresh water, to rinse! 

Many homes have been restored.

One of the old "neveras" found in this area. These were underground "refrigerators" where the farmers stored the milk and cheese!

View of Erbonne

From Erbonne, looking back on the route we took. We came around the mountain on the right, just above the meadow. 

The old post of the Guardia di Finanza - as it's called in Italy - like the "tax control" to catch those bringing contraband. It has been restored into a tiny customs museum. 

 

You can't go in the museum - just look from the outside. 

On the little road outside of Erbonne, Italy

View of Erbonne on our hike back to Scudellate

Back in Scudellate, a couple of bikers stop at the water basins, which are basically attached to the mountain wall to get their water.

Continuing further on from Scudellate, there is actually another small town called Roncapiano. The bus even goes here - we see bus stop signs, but the road is being repaired and only took us to Scudellate. 

Roncapiano. We don't make it all the way to the town - we have to get back to Scudellate to catch the bus. If we miss it we will have to wait 4 hours for the last bus!

The town of Cabbio in Valley Muggio, as see on the road between Roncapiano and Scudellate.

Walking back to Scudellate. You can see the winding road to get to this town!

Here comes our little bus! The switchback is so tight that even this van has to stop, back up, and continue the turn!

After being dropped off from the small bus in the town of Muggio, our driver goes to fetch the big bus for the rest of the trip down the mountain. Here she comes!