Wednesday, April 26, 2017

April 20, 2017 A visit to unusual local places...

Today we had several places we wanted to visit, and they were quite near each other. We began with a bus trip to the small town of Tremora, between Lugano and Chiasso. Recently, on a hilltop just outside the town, the ruins of a medieval village was uncovered in the forest. Some areas are still being excavated, but it has been just recently open to the public. 
From the hill above Tremona, it was so clear that we could see Milan in the distance! Right in the center of the picture. With the eye you can see the skyscrapers. 

The outlines of the homes of the medieval village. 

The ruins. There was also a wall around the village. 

We then took the bus to another nearby town - down the valley and up the other side to Castel San Pietro. From this high point there was a great view of the snowcapped Alps in the distance. Again, much easier to see with the naked eye. 

From Castel San Pietro we walked down from the town to this church, San Pietro, also called the "Chiesa Rossa" - the Red Church. Ruins of the castel were nearby. This is a very old church (1343)  with evidence of existence from the 4th and 5th century. It is known for a tragedy that occured inside on Christmas, 1390. One hundred people, mostly from a certain family, were inside that evening, when a feuding family came, locked the doors, then went in and killed all inside. It had been called the Chiesa Rossa for the blood that was splattered on the walls, but later the front was painted red. 

The Chiesa Rossa was open, as a small tour was being conducted, and we got to see the very important frescoes on the walls. About 1 minute later, the tour left and we were asked to leave, as the tour guide needed to lock the doors. Well, we were certainly lucky that we arrived just at the right moment to see the inside! 

From the church we followed a path down to the gorge of the Gole della Breggia. The path was called the Sentiero del 1700 - a path from the 1700's, which leads to a gorge of the Breggia river. Here is part of the gorge. 

At the bottom of the gorge, there are the remains of a huge cement factory. Stone was taken from inside the walls of the mountain on left. This factory operated from about 1960 to 2003. They were going to take it down, but decided to leave it and renovate some of it as part of history, but also, to show how shocking it was that this was built in such a quiet, beautiful place - never to be the same. A reminder not to do this elsewhere ever again.
There is also a stage of architecture in Ticino which I'm sure was part of this era - many ugly, concrete apartment buildings which would make one feel like they are in communist Russia. Fortunately the style is changing now, but a shame that we still see the ugly, concrete buildings in the Lugano area. 

The rusted remains of  the Mulino del Ghitello (Ghitello Mill)
This area is not far from the train station in the town of Balerna. We then completely our day by taking the train home from Balerna. 

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

April 17, 2017 - Vallemaggia hike above Brontallo and Piano di Peccia

We stay a third night in Vallemaggia because we are really having a nice time. On this last day, we decide to visit a few other communities in the valley. We first go to a valley area nearby called Piano di Peccia.

At the last little town in the Piano di Peccia, San Antonino, we find a great restored "Torba", which is a stall which held the animals and the hay was stored on top. The top building was lifted up with large, round rocks under the top part, to prevent rats from reaching the food! 
San Antonino in Piano di Peccia
We leave Piano di Peccia and go up a switchback road to the town of Brontallo. It is very unique for the number of animal stalls which were built all the same and all facing the same direction. The town is slowly being totally restored and many of these old stalls are now summer rental homes. 
A beautiful, restored former stall. The restoration is thanks to many Swiss Germans who have been restoring Brontallo to a summer destination. The town was also well marked with a walk one can do to learn about the history of the town. 
Inside one of the buildings I see an old funnel type basket "una gerla" (gerlu-gerlo in Ticinese dialect) or more exactly "CARGANSC", which is very typical to this region. The one pictured would be called Cargansc because it has a more open weave for carrying grass and hay. The tighter woven baskets of this type, gerla, would carry fruit and vegetables and chesnuts. The Ticinese farmers wore them on their backs. It's rare now,  but from time to time we have seen someone still using these! 
We are following the historical walk signs. View of Brontallo
Rick admiring the old buildings. 
We are slowly moving higher in the town. 
We begin to follow a rocky path which indicates that it leads up to Margonegia. I don't really know what to expect up there, but we see a cross and lookout point, and we head up to get the view. At one point, the hiking path indicates for us to go to the right, but it looks narrow and scary! The stone trail also goes to the left. I choose the left path, which takes us through the forest, but the path becomes more difficult and the stones slippery. Maybe we should have followed the indication to the right?
We finally get to the "top", well, in Switzerland you're never at the top unless you REALLY go to the peak of the mountain! There are always more paths, more homes. Here, we have a beautiful view down the valley, and we find that we are above a group of homes, and that on this side of the mountainside there is actually a road! And here we thought we were going somewhere only accessible by foot. Switzerland always surprises me! The town in the distance on the left is Menzonio.
The path we took actually took us much higher than the cross and "lookout" point we had seen from below. 
I suppose this area of the mountain is called Margonegia, or I think that is the name of the mountain. Here, there is a path that links the group of homes we came upon, to more in the distance and up higher. Can you see the homes just ahead and also up high? Up higher there is an "agritourismo" farm - a farm that hosts guests who can relax, learn about the farm, and help out if they wish. 
How hard must life have been on these slopes - and the making of so many stone terraces! 
Rick in the meadow! 
We actually have to hike back down to this area (which had the cross). We had passed a woman and her son and asked her about the hiking path we had seen that seemed to be "on the edge" and more dangerous. She said that was the path with the view and the one we should take. We follow the signs then to go back to town on that path.
In this picture, I'm kind of sitting on the "edge" on the bench, but the green of the mountain blends with the mountains on the other side of the valley. Too bad you can't see the depth in the photo.
Looking back at the first group of homes we hiked up to. 
The fun thing about Swiss hiking paths is that they will pass through farm meadows and even private property. Here, you can see a couple of yellow hiking signs on the left of the house. We have to open the gate, walk past the house and a patio, where a man and woman were sitting outside in the sun! We say hello and continue, feeling so silly to walk right through their patio! Antoher gate and we continue down the path. I love it! 
We begin to take the "scenic" path that the woman had recommended. Wow! Great view of Brontallo and the switchback road that leads up to it. The town in the distance is Bignasco. 
Let's head down! The big flat rock face you see is used for rock climbing. 

I definitely feel more secure with my hiking poles! 
The zigzag of the path
It's really a drop off here - scary, but really, you won't fall - it's a great path! 

Arriving back in Brontallo
Looking back at the little chapel lookout point to which we hiked -actually, remember we took the other path and ended up higher in the group of homes on the other side of the hill. 
Looking through Brontallo you can see the steep terraces of land. 
A row of renovated stalls in Brontallo
Brontallo, which the mountain ledge up to which we had hiked.
We say goodbye to Brontallo. It was a strenuous hike for me. My legs are still aching, but it was totally worth it! 



April 16, 2017 Easter in Vallemaggia - Cimalmotto

Another beautiful day in Ticino and the Vallemaggia – I wanted to go to the end of a valley I had not been to before, so we set out in the little Smart car to head to the town of Cimalmotto. As we head up into the valley from the town of Cevio, I need to zig zag up 10 tight switchbacks. It’s nerve-wrecking!
We are finally up at Cimalmotto. The area is also called Campo Vallemaggia. The altitude is 5282 feet. I just drove up from the turn in Cevio, which was an altitude of 1381 feet. What a climb! 
Many summer vacation homes in Cimalmotto.    
The interesting thing about Campo Vallemaggia and Cimalmotto…… noted over the last 200 years, is that the land is shifting and breaking off! The land is unstable and there have been efforts over the last 20 years to stabilize it by trying to control the flow of water underneath the surface. It is the largest slipping of land in all of Europe. 
It is really a frightening sight! As Rick and I walked to see the view, all of a sudden we can see THE EDGE! It looks like quite recently chunks have fallen off. I don’t think I would like to have my vacation home here.

We are really not sure where to hike, so we just head in the direction of the snowcapped mountains. 
Our hike follows a gravel road, which I'm sure will lead almost to the top, but of course, that is still so far away, so at this point we decide to hike back to the town.
Sure looks like this area could fall off one day. So sad! Hopefully the Swiss will be able to control it. 
A beautiful view looking back to Cimalmotto
On our drive back down, we get this view of Campo Vallemaggia. You can really get an idea of how high these towns are. Not sure what that "hole" is over on the edge. This area is also slipping.